Finished Seeking Sicily by John Keahey over the weekend. A to-do on my Sicilian Virtual Adventure List.
A detailed look inside Sicily and the Sicilian Mindset, which Keahey calls "Sicilitude" (aptly). And where that attitude came from.
The book, written in 2011, begins at the ruins of the home of 18th Century author of Il Leopardo (Giuseppe di Lampedusa).
His timing, perfect, as the once palatial fortress was to be razed the following week. Photographs inside show the lush palazzo- crumbling, overgrown and abandoned. Inquiries as to why this was never restored as a memorial/monument to one of Sicily's more famous authors is met with a shrug and
"Eh."
He will encounter a lot of this resignation through his travels. Ascribed to a people who has been conquered,subjected, and unable to control their fate through the centuries...he sums the entire affair up in a single Sicilian saying
Sufaru Sugnu
Which translates to
"I am sulfur"
Referring to the chunks of sulfur mined in Sicily. Tossed into waiting carts with little regard and no control over their destiny.
This is also the reason that Italy considers Sicilians to be Italians...but Sicilians rarely do.
He makes mention of the Messina Bridge Project (remember the never-to-be built bridge) and another reason it will NEVER happen. The Sicilians want it even less than Mainland Italy does.
They revel in their sense of separateness.
Their Sicilian-ness.
It explores local customs, foods, and craftsmanship...including the disappearing hand-painted donkey carts. Today, mostly reserved for parades and festivals.
He worships throughout the book at the alter of Sciascia, also making mention of (current day Sicilian author) Camilleri and his wildly popular Montalbano series. Several of which I have now read.
Andrea Camilleri
It is a fairly comprehensive study of Sicily, and since I have until November to poke around the island...and I own "Seeking Sicily"- I may use the book like I did Year in the World to explore deeper and supplement my initial itinerary.
More anon...
,
Gone now.
The Villa Lampedusa