And then the rains came.
Late last night.
"You said this was the dry season!" I accused Tooh...glaring.
"Drier" Was his one word response. His wide toothy grin never faltering.
By 5AM the deluge had ceased and Woody had us all up doing our stretches...preparing for the day ahead of us, Now in gray mud and slippery red clay.
Breakfast was underwhelming as well. The smell that I was having trouble identifying was Spam frying. Curled edges sizzling.
By 6 AM we were breaking camp and ready to continue The Kokoda and our first of many upward climbs.
The scent of the rainforest after the downpour defies description.
Green..comes close.
It smells GREEN.
ALIVE.
The shower did have the effect of cooling it to 73 degrees today and overcast.
It feel cool and a respite from yesterday's nearly 90 and sunny.
Woody ask that we have our water shoes at hand as we would be crossing winding creek (Ua Ule) nearby at least 22 times.
Oh..kay...
Tooh said the Golden Stairs were a 7 out of 10 for difficulty.
"The Wall" he explained "Is a Ten."
We groaned collectively, and stayed behind our individual porters.
This used to be part of The Golden Staircase in 1942 during the war...
The original steps of wood rotted away and gone like so many of the corpses that were at the top and bottom during the war.
The 2000 steps replaced in later times as a War Memorial Walkway of 1000 Steps to the Ridge.
Even with the improvements and the handrails...most of us required steadying hands of our porters.
Most slipped and fell somewhere along this part.
It was impossible imagining young troops climbing the (at times) vertical face on slippery wet wooden steps only to be killed nearing the top.
"Monk" one of our number thought of his father, and the war stories he had been told.
(...his dad was one of the Aussies who had fought the Japanese along this Track and died here...that is why he is taking this journey...)
"I wonder if my old man made it this far..."
He reflected to no one, quietly.
Once we made it to The Ridge only the porters were breathing normally. The rest of us were stopped taking huge gulps of air trying to fill our lungs and assauge our burning muscles.
The Golden Stairs
https://youtu.be/VvRm1r9pTig
Woody took advantage of the stop to make sure we changed into our water shoes.
Crossing Ua Ule Creek
Again and again and again...areas ranging from shoe-top high to places nearly waist deep. And the source is cold mountain spring water. Occasionally we stop as Woody and several of the other porters cut trees to form a improptu bridge.
More than one tourist slips and falls and must be fished out.
The rest of us get a good laugh...with the porters joining in.
Occasionally, Yeoy makes up a song on the spot and strums his guitar. Our own strolling minstral narrating our misadventures.
It is all done in fun.
"Twenty-Two"
And the creek meandered its way...and we meandered in the opposite direction. No more hopscotch crossings today!
Exhausted from the morning's climb, and the cold water crossings, our pace has slowed considerably. It is welcome. This place is exquisite.
Not like
"Oh-that's-nice."
But absolutely breathtaking.
Tooh is intent on teaching me more Tok and sometimes it feels like hiking with Annie Sullivan (Helen Keller's Teacher)
"...kakruck.." he insists.
I shake my head...not understanding.
"Kakaruck" he practically shouts pointing at what appears to be a chicken by some local's dirt strewn hut.
"Oh..CHICKEN!" I reply, and he grins broadly.
"Gaden" he gestures at an overgrowth of what appears to be melon vines in the rear.
"Garden?" I question.
"Very good...we will have you understanding Tok before you finish the track." He encourages.
Soon we have passed through the tiny almost-a-village and are back in the depths of jungle.
Accompanied by the increase in both temperature and humidity...both 90 plus.
I am basting in my own juices.
During our ascent to Ioribaiwa Ridge I pay less attention to my discomforts, and more to the flora and fauna around me.
I am not disappointed.
A rainforest butterfly as wide as my own palm shining iridescently blue.
A spider nearly as big sitting in her web.
Wild Bees in the trees.
And a beautiful Bird-Of-Paradise
Which Tooh explains have been hunted to almost extinction for their long colorful feathers...are protected now...and a rare sight.
Also the Official Bird of New Guinea.
"Very good luck, seeing one. Very good indeed!"
And the huge New Guinea Impatiens.
Everywhere.
Contrary to what I have been told, they have no poisonous effects whatsoever. The flowers, although they have little to no flavor, can be added to a salad or food for decoration without ill effects.
Good to know.
These would make a lovely garnishment for salad.
At last we arrive in Ioribaiwa Village.
As we clean up, in the ice cold shower, the porters are working with the locals to prepare us roast pork, damper (a kind of bread involving only flour and water), rice, vegetables and fruits.
It is an appreciated feast.
As darkness falls we have a fire and sit around discussing the day behind us...and enjoy Yeoy's guitar and songs.
What he may lack in talent he makes up for in enthusiasm.
"Another day...another kina"
says Tooh.
Later I will find that Kina is a monetary measurement
One USD equals about 3.40 Kina.
There are a million stars above in the velvety blackness. No artificial light...No wires...no cell phones...no TV's...No Internet WIFI hotspots.
(...the satellite phone Woody carries in his pack is NOT for calls to loved ones back home...but only for REAL emergencies...)
Just smiles, and song, and the crackle of the fire and our own voices, here in this place.
More on up the track...
