Digging in later...I was thankful for porters and especially those who find bacon in this off the map tiny village...saving us from another day of fried spam.
"Today is Tuesday...and today we will face Menari." Woody announced.
After our hot breakfast and morning exercise we were off...
Our first glimpse of Menari...The Wall.
What Woody failed to mention is that we had to hike though the Nauro River Swamp first...
When we finally reached The Wall.
Our porters had apparently secured more than our breakfast bacon. I was startled to see Tooh grin to me and spit out what I thought at first was a mouthful of blood on the ground.
"Betel Nut" Yeoy explained.
Betel Nuts Growing
The nuts are sliced...wrapped in betel leaves and chewed for a mild stimulant. The deep reddish tinged sputum a by-product of chewing the quid (as it is referred to)...sadly the Betel Nut is also quite addictive and over time carcinogenic...so no...I won't be partaking myself.
Suddenly before us is The Wall.
The climb filled with roots and brush as far as the eye can see.
From where we are standing it is impossible to see the top.
Just The Wall.
"Rest" Woody says. "I've a challenge for those who want it."
He explains that a climb to the top usually takes the better part of an hour.
"Who would like to try to beat that time?"
A race to the top.
There are a few takers.
The rest of us will be appreciative spectators.
"We all have to make it to the top...so the only difference will be how fast."
I am grateful to see that Tooh is not among those lined up for Woody's challenge.
And they're off...and shouting...laughing as they climb...then not so much so...
When Tooh and I begin the climb...he advises me there are two rules to climbing The Wall.
"The FIRST one is don't look up."
"What is the second one?" I ask.
"Also do not look up." he laughs.
The climb is rough and any muscles that have failed to hurt..now do.
By the time we reach the top and pull ourselves over we can only lay there on our backs gulping air into lungs that feel scorched.
"Congratulations...you have completed the hardest section of The Track." Woody encourages us.
"I can't breathe", says one of the group.
"You ARE breathing." Yeoy says, with a smile.
After collecting the stragglers we are on our way to Menari Village where we will stop for tonight.
Menari Village marks the half-way point on The Track.
The Village and its people are as Welcoming as the last village was Indifferent.
Our group is enfolded by smiling members in traditional garb and curious groups of singing children.
The atmosphere is that of a party, and we are the long awaited guests!
Tooh tells me there will be a feast tonight...to rest and meet in the community hut at 6 PM.
He also tells me I am in luck, as we will be meeting one of the "Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels" still surviving from the war.
The Aussie soldiers referred to the natives who helped them survive and navigate this rugged terrain as "Fuzzy Wuzzies" because of their kinky hair..it started as a slur...after the war they respectfully tagged on the Angels part...realizing they would never have survived, much less emerged victorious, if not for the local guides.
By six...the table is laid...
And there are dancers outside the community hut.
And so much food!
Pork and Taro Root and Yams...wrapped in banana leaves and spices, and baked.
Fresh fruits and other traditional dishes that smelled heavenly.
Our reward for making it up The Wall...and this far.
Then we are introduced to the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel.
His name, his grandson says, is Faoli.
He has seen and done things in his life that we could not possibly fathom. There are Aussies who literally owe their lives to this man. Maybe Japanese, too.
As the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels availed themselves to both sides, indiscriminately.
He seems to enjoy his celebrity standing in his community, now and we listen respectfully to his war stories...interpreted at times by his grandson.
As it gets later...he must excuse himself
"For I am very old." he chuckles.
And we laugh too...
Well fed and relaxed it it time for us to sleep as well.
